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Friday, February 20, 2015

Tage Frid chair construct


 I spent three days at Snow College to attend a class taught by Cris Gochner. We constructed this chair, all with hand tools in those three days. In the picture above, you can see the hand cut dovetails that are angled at 9 Deg. The seat to the left is made by hand hewing from a piece that is 1 1/8" in thickness. The seat slopes from the back to the front 1 1/8" to about 5/8". The legs are oval in shape as are the rungs. The legs are splayed 4 deg. to the front and 12 deg. to the right and left. The back leg is 20deg to the rear. It may look awkward, but it actually is quite comfortable.  For more about the designer who passed away in 2004 go to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tage_Frid

Wonderful craftsman! I wish that I had known him.

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Chess/ backgammon table

 This is a top view of where the removable chess/backgammon board is housed. I could have just put the board on the top of the drawer guides that you see, but where is the fun in that? These are cherry. The table itself is Quartersawn white oak. The top flower is holly and the flower stem is cherry. The stem is proud of the top and the flower is flush. The bottom flower is Nicaraguan red heart with some sort of yellow wood for the flower center. Again the flower stem is proud of the surface and is cherry. The little dot that you see on each joint is a wooden peg that is driven through offset holes in the mortice and tenon. This draws the joint tight and makes it nearly impossible to come apart.


 Here is a closeup  of the red flower. The border of the chessboard is cherry that is rounded over for comfort. The cross band is mahogany. Then there is a band of ebony and Holly with the chessboard field bordering the holly.
Here is a closeup of the holly flower. The flower petals are sand shaded for contrast.
 This is the table. The pattern at the bottom of the table apron is a modified cloud lift. (arches slightly).
 Each of the two drawers have divided drawers.
Flush ring pull drawers round out the  drawer. The drawer itself has cockbead around the drawer.




Very enjoyable project.

Friday, December 26, 2014

Sea Chest for Christmas 2014

 This is a sea chest showing inlaid black eyed susans. The wood was colored pine and the pine soon lost its yellow color. The brighter yellow was osage orange. The remained yellow, so I am not happy with the outcome of this inlay. Karen's favorite flower is the Black eyed susans.








 This picture is a close up of the hand cut dovetails. They are cut at an 8 deg angle. I do not like evenly spaced dovetails, so I make the dovetails with separate spacing.
 This is a picture is a view showing the hemp handle and wood bracket. The wood is holly for the snow and figured walnut for the soil portion of the mountain. Cloud lifts are found on the bottom of all of the chests.


The cherry does not look very good here, but the pansies are nice. The red pansies are holly and Nicaraguan redheart. The yellow are osage orange.


This walnut chest shows stargazer lilies from holly and paudouk. 


This white oak chest is for a daughter that is a nurse practitioner. The medical symbol is cut out and then the black epoxy is added. I have some really nice black ebony on hand, but it is so brittle and difficult to work with that I elected not to use it. 
All of the chests have a solid wood top that is prone to warping. To avoid that, I used what is called a bread board end. There are three tenons that are pegged with a riven pin. The end board has three mortises. The hole in those mortises is offset to the hole that is in the top board that is the tenon. By having them offset, when the riven pin is driven in, it draws the two together tightly. Only the center tenon is glued. This allows for expansion and contraction of the top. 


Saturday, May 31, 2014

A place for my hand saws....

 This is a view of my nearly completed saw till. This first picture is of the closed till. If you look at the left of the saw handles, you can see that they are set back into the cabinet box. This will allow me to add another till if the need arises. The till is hinged with continuous hinge on the front of the cabinet.
 This is a picture of the first till opened. This exposes three of my saws.







 This is a picture of the second till open. With this open, I can get to the inner most saws.
This picture shows the two tills when they are spooned together. They are held together with rare earth magnets. I figure that if I add even one more till, I can hold a total of about ten saws.



The cabinet will probably weigh 8 million pounds when I am finished. That is ok. I will be dead so it will be left up to the kids to worry about removal! Ha Ha. 

Thursday, March 13, 2014

Just another piece of wood

 I have a friend, (yes I know that is hard to believe), that is terminally ill and is also an artist. He asked if I could make a board that would go from arm to arm of a recliner. Well, because he is an artist, I just could not just give him a slab of wood. I came up with this. The borders are cherry, field is walnut. The flower petals are sand shaded holly with cherry used as the stem. I hope that he will find this better than just a piece of wood.

Monday, February 10, 2014

Sea chest


This is the completed sea chest. The rope handles, dovetails, and bread board ends  are all hand cut and fitted.









The rope is cut about 43" long, separated into the three strands.
 The rope will make three of the handles. It is 5/8" manilla rope.










 The approximate size is the size of a glue bottle. This is just a little fussy to get the correct diameter of 5 1/4".
 The handle is drilled at 7/8" and then cut open. The inside is cut out to make room for the splice of the rope.

 Rope is cheap and I thought that I would make extra because I like the handle so well.

 After the rope is re-weaved and glued together, it is wrapped in glue soaked canvas, dipped in diluted glue solution to make the rope maintain its shape. This a a shot of the handles drying.


 This is a shot of the hand cut dovetails.

I used a jig saw to cut out the majority of the cloud lift and the router and the template to cut the cloud lift to smooth shape.






This last shot is of the chest with the door open. You can also see the bread board ends. The ends are held with draw bored holes to keep the edge of the bread board long edge and the top tight.

Monday, January 20, 2014

Covering a water shut off

 Karen threatened that if I did not make a cover for the water shut off then she would go to a cabinet shop and have someone make one. Well....I could not have that could I?  I do not know what her hurry was. It has only been 34 years since we bought this house. (in my defense, I have done MANY things to keep the house current). 
This is the opening. I made a simple frame of quarter sawn white oak.







The flowers are holly that have been sand shaded. The flower stem is cherry and the kanji (mizu=water) is walnut. The finish is 4 coats of shelac.

Thursday, December 26, 2013

Phone table

I know, I know, people do not have a land line anymore but I saw this little phone table at a home nearby and just had to make my version of the desk. I would guess that the original was made in the 40's or 50's.








Here is my version. The original did not have a drawer. I felt that a drawer was much more useful than a phone book. (what is that anyway?)

 I began by making the mortises in the legs. I cut the tenons and made a mortice in the tenon that accepts the opposing tenon. This effectively locks the tenon in so that it can not pull out.
 Here is the tenon that inserts into the tenon above.
 This is how the tenons lock together inside of the leg.
 The chair back had to be bent. It is better to use air dried lumber, but that is extremely difficult to locate. Kiln dried has the lignins set and so it is necessary to re-saw the board, steam the pieces in a steam box and then clamp to a form. This picture is the back of the chair in the bending form.
 This is the chair back after gluing. The top is scrapped and then jointed.












The flowers are made and then inlaid into the bent back. This picture shows the cloud lift design that is common with arts and crafts furniture.









The back is fitted to the leg.




 I re-sawed a piece of figured walnut into the three pieces that you see. I book matched two of the pieces on the left here and slip matched the far right piece. After the three were glued into a single large piece that measured 22" x 22" I began the marquetry of the flowers.

 You can see here the flower just sitting above the cut out for the flower. When they join, they are tight fitting and no joints between the flower and the back ground should be seen.
 Here is the table in the rough. Final sanding and clear finish is all that needs to be done.
 Here is a raw view of the top veneers.
 Chair open view without the drawer.
 This is the beginning of the drawer cavity. I bent the walnut by steaming and then clamping it into the form. The gaps on the sides are hidden areas.
 Rare earth magnets hold the sides in place.
 Here you can see the front drawer with the carved wenge pull handle.











The front drawer has rare earth magnets that pull the hidden drawer.
The hidden drawer needs to be accessed by putting a finger in this finger hole, depressing a locking tab, and then pulling the hidden drawer out of the cavity.

 Here is a view of the finished top. I treat my walnut with Deftoil stain to keep the walnut from turning coffee cream brown. The bookmatch and slipmatch can be seen quite well here.
 The chair back flowers. The stems on the top are flush with the top so as not to interfere with writing. The stems on the chair are proud of the surface to give a 3d appearance.

 The pull on the drawer is carved wenge.